Friday, December 5, 2008

Krampusläufe

Some things just can't be translated from German to English, like the word Krampus. The Krampus is just a Krampus, and so I'll try to help you understand. The Krampus is an evil companion to St. Nikolaus. He punishes the bad while St. Nikolaus rewards the good. The Krampus has animal fur, a devil-like face, and long horns or antlers. He wears wear large cowbells to warn people he is approaching, and he carries a switch or whip. Sometimes the Krampus also pulls along a cart in which he throws naughty children.

Krampusläufe (Krampus parades) are a long standing tradition in Austria. It used to be that there was one big Krampuslauf in Salzburg on St. Nikolaus Day Eve (at least that's what I remember from fifteen years ago), but now the Krampusse have been running in and around Salzburg for the last week. And there's not just one Krampus, there are hundreds of Krampusse. Last Sunday there was a Krampuslauf in Grödig, just outside Salzburg. There were 800 Krampusse that took part in the parade. And you can't imagine that it is like an American 4th of July parade. It is like a real-live horror movie with menacing Krampusse taunting, chasing, and whipping the crowd.

The Krampus tradition stems from pre-Christian times and seems to have become increasingly popular. There are Krampusvereine (Krampus clubs) in Austria, but a Verein isn't just a club that you form with some friends in your garage. A Verein (and there are Vereine on any sort of interest people may have - books, planes, chess, etc.) has an official 'seal of approval' granted by a court to give it permission to function. And to become a Krampus? Well, you have to apply to your city or town to be one and be accepted as a Krampus. Then, and only then, are you allowed to don your sheepskin suit and your handcarved wooden mask complete with real animal horns and participate in Krampusläufe.

Tonight, downtown, there were three Krapusläufe, one after another, shortly after nightfall. Sadly, Jenny stayed home with Nikolas so that we wouldn't scar him for life, while I went downtown with some of my students. There is something fascinatingly horrible about the Krampus, and even as an adult, the sound of the bells sends chills up our spines but lures us at the same time. Even though you know they are just people in costume, Krampusse are big and scary, and particularly like to chase after people with cameras. I risked it all to get these pictures and this movie, and I only have one welt from a whip on my leg from my efforts!


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